I don't have much left to do on Natasha before the construction side of things is finished. Today I started work on the seat mounts; I've been leaving this to the very last stages as I wanted to have the tank back from the paint shop so I can make sure the seat fits in conjunction with it. I should mention that even though I picked up the tank a couple of weeks ago, it turns out that Ron had to respray it again. Under natural light the paint had some solvent popping issues going on, which basically looks like microscopic holes in the clear coat. Perfect under artificial light but in bright sunlight the tank didn't look so good. Unfortunately the tank is still not finished and I couldn't sit around doing nothing today, so I at least got the basics of the seat mounts made.
The seat from Dime City Cycles has two 'fingers' at the front of the seat which fit into the frame. With the main section of the wiring loom coming through this part, the right side of the fingers were offset, and the seat did not sit squarely on the frame. I drilled out the pop rivets and repositioned the fingers so that they no longer hit the wiring loom. And in order for the fingers to have a tighter fit I used some 7/8 x 5/8" rubber heater tubing, split down the middle, and glued over the seat mount of the frame to increase it's diameter.
The rear of the seat is a little trickier. I cut a piece of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) to raise the seat above the electronics, this also gives the right spacing at the rear for the brake light/turn signals and makes the base of the seat parallel with the frame. This is currently drying as I sprayed it flat black to match the frame; I will attach it to the frame with some epoxy glue, and stick some 1/16" foam on top to stop it from rubbing the base of the seat.
I then cut a piece of 3/4" x 1/8" flat steel stock to make a subframe to bolt to the seat, which can then be attached to the rear frame. Using a cardboard template I bent this bar in the middle and drilled two holes for the 6mm x 1.0 bolts that come with the seat. (There are two nuts imbedded in the GRP (Glass-fiber Reinforced Plastic) base that they screw into.) I then cut three smaller pieces and using some scrap 1" tubing, and some 1/16" aluminum bar as spacers, made a small bracket and welded it together. This I then tidied up using the bench grinder/rat tailed file, and drilled two 9/32" holes. These holes are just fractionally bigger than the 1/4 x 1 1/2" Button Handle Lock Pin w/Ring that should be arriving tomorrow from Grainger. I didn't want to make the seat impossible to remove without tools, so these lock pins will mean the seat can be removed easily at the side of the road. At $28 a piece they better work!
Of course I made a second bracket identical to the first. Well, the second one is actually a little bit better than the first. :) I will wait for the tank to be mounted in place before I weld everything together and drill the holes through the frame for the lock pins; I don't want to do that now and find that I need to move things a 1/4" back or something.
Current hours on build: 177.0